by Peter Hennessey
In the year 2006 nearly one hundred thousand completed at least some part of the Camino. It follows several trails from all over Europe to Santiago & the supposed final resting place of the Apostle St James. Executed in Jerusalem in 43AD his remains were mysteriously found by the hermit Pelayo in a cave in the 9th century. In the following centuries a flood of pilgrims from all over Europe descended on Santiago. They played significant role in repopulating & the re-conquest of Spain from the Moslems (Moors). The Camino nearly passed into history during the nineteenth & early twentieth centuries. But has experienced a resurgence in the past twenty years mainly with French & German travelers.
Walking into the Cathedral with five minutes to spare & still carrying my backpack.
I could sense the excitement amongst other Pilgrims. In fact chatting to fellow walkers on the way through the suburbs of Santiago left no doubt this would be a day well remembered by all who complete the Camino.
With new friends Michael & Ute, I had started two hours before sunrise. So we could be here for the midday service.
It had meant walking by torchlight until we stopped at a village for breakfast. Twenty kilometers in one morning is easy when you have just walked over seven hundred & sixty kilometers.
My journey started in St Jean Pied de Port southern France nearly five weeks earlier. Then I was alone & a little nervous as I crossed the Pyrenees. My first day was memorable for the constant rain, waterlogged boots, falling in the mud & wet mobile phone.
It was four years since my friend Daniel Pericart inspired me to attempt the Camino. It required detailed preparation, many months of training & then the flights to Europe.
Finally, I crossed into Spain on August 23rd wet but determined to go on. In the weeks to come I would meet many fascinating individuals from all parts of the world & experience the history, culture & cuisine of Spain village by village.
Each day required a search for food & a suitable Albergue. Basic hostel accommodation often run by volunteers where it’s usual to have forty travelers share a dormitory. I walked an average of 24 kilometers a day. But always had plenty of time to explore & socialize with fellow travelers.
Many people asked why I was doing the walk! Adventure & the physical challenge are part of the answer. I also decided it was an opportunity to reflect on where to from here with my life. I’m not very religious person but I did experience a spiritual element throughout.
