This is the first instalment from Kate Davis, a Year 12 graduate from Pymble Ladies College who spent 3 months during her gap year on an Antipodeans Abroad Year Out Program. Kate lived with a local family in Ghana doing volunteer teaching and speaks candidly about what life is like in Africa from her perspective.
Life in Ghana – My First 2 Weeks
Our first week was spent in Accra and was a subtle introduction to life in dusty, hot Ghana. We stayed at a hostel - air conditioned which seems like such a luxury now we have left. We were shown around by our guide Charles, who we all became friends with, and our trusty driver Isaac (affectionately known as oh chi chi which means big crocodile).
Our week consisted of markets, traditional drumming and dancing, language lessons, the beach, and clubbing Ghana style. I cannot get sick of my surroundings as there is always something interesting going on.
The landscape is barren and dusty but scattered with coconut trees and brightly coloured houses and shops. The Ghanaians have so little yet their hearts are huge. Everywhere we go we hear “Obruni where are you going?” Obruni is a white person and means from the horizon. We shout back “Obini where are you going?” which means black person. It sounds cruel but they think it’s hilarious. A few times a day someone will tell us they would like to take us as a friend.
We have all picked up bits and pieces of Twi. The phrases “gye saa” which means “stop that” and “mempe saa”, “I don't like that”, come in handy especially when 4 men surround you saying they are going to marry you. I have now however moved into my village. It’s called Gomoa Bezedes and is tiny. It’s situated about 15 minutes out of a small town called Swedru.
My Ghanaian family is amazing and their hospitality is overwhelming. I have been given the African name Adjuia which is based on my day of birth. I have also been given a family name, a church name and a name from school but I cant pronounce them let alone remember them. I have however only just been able to work out my family as everyone that comes over is an aunt, brother or sister.
My mother is Mary. She has lots of children but I have 2 brothers called Kofi and Wofa who are 14 and 12 and I have a sister called Mena who is 11 who live with us. I then have a cousin who is 20 and her 2 children who are 4 and one week old. On Monday we are invited to a traditional naming ceremony for the baby.
Our house is one of the central homes in the village. Ours is a courtyard house which means our main living area is an outside courtyard which all of the other rooms feed off. We have a pit toilet and a bucket shower. Despite what you all might think, these are not to be feared. The bucket shower is actually refreshing in the heat. Our Mum is the best. Even though she can't speak much English, every time we come home she gives us big hugs and has food waiting. Ghanaian food is amazing.
The majority of the cooking is done outside and we also eat outside. Did I mention that we eat with our hands? A bit worried about what my manners will be like when we return. By Ghanaian standards we are too thin and our family is aiming to fatten us up. Our serving sizes are about 4 times something we would be served in Australia. When I finished all my rice yesterday Mary cheered.
She is teaching us how to cook. Yesterday we returned the favour and showed her how to make French toast. The only problem is our family doesn't let us help. They say it makes them happy to be able to help us. Every now and then I manage to convince her to let me help clear and wash plates.
We wake up at 5 every morning. Every third day we hand wash our clothes. It is pretty labour intensive but rewarding. I stand back and look at my clean clothes on the makeshift clothes line with pride. Our mum supervises and often takes over. While we wash some of the villagers come to watch and clap and laugh. Any adoption of their culture we undertake they think is great.
Yesterday at 6am a lady arrived to braid our hair. It took her 2 hours and cost us 20 0000 cedes which is about $2. Swedru, which is the nearest town, is 15km away but takes 5 minutes in a taxi and costs less than 50 cents. The alternative transport is a tro tro which is a van which can squeeze 17 people in. The roads are chaos and each time I enter a vehicle I have to shut my eyes.
Swedru is very overwhelming. The infrastructure is poor and the city is very disorderly. Along the side of the road there are gutters which can be up to 2m deep. Sewage runs freely and they are also used as rubbish bins. The smell is a little off putting to say the least but surprisingly we are getting used to it. Taxis and tro tros block the roads and the sounds of the drivers shouting their destinations adds to the chaos.
There are people everywhere carrying different products on their heads - Africans can carry anything on their heads. Africans don't really go to shops, they buy most of their stuff in markets or on the roadside. You can buy anything from fruit to stationery. Yesterday we bought 6 mangos for about 20 cents. The Ghanaians manage to eat them on the street without peeling them so we thought we would try too. To say the least it was a big mess. Each time we are in Swedru I wish to return to my family and my village.
It’s strange how easily I’ve adapted and Africa is beginning to feel like home. I definitely miss lots from Australia though. School is from 7am to 2pm and some of the local kids wait in my courtyard and we walk to school together. On my first day one girl told me that she would like to be my best friend because she likes me so very much. This week there haven’t been any classes and the students have been "cleaning the compound" which means bringing their blades to school and cutting the grass.
On Monday we will start classes. I’m excited to meet my class and am hoping they will be good.
We are also regularly visiting the local orphanage. There are about 60 kids there ranging from 1 year olds to 16 year olds. The children share two rooms and one shower and one toilet. There isn’t much food and when we are arrive we are swarmed, but all they want is hugs. It’s obvious they crave affection that every child should get from their parents. Each time I leave I have tears in my eyes because they are so happy despite their hardship. We are all scheming to find a way to fundraise for them.
Part Two of Kate's story from Ghana will appear in the next post.
About Antipodeans Abroad:
Antipodeans Abroad as in Australian company that offers a range of global volunteer travel experiences for adults, high-school students, and university students. Participants provide much appreciated work in needy communities across Africa, Asia and South America, and return home with invaluable life experience, increased confidence and lifelong memories.
www.antipodeans.com.au
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